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Omega Speedmaster Professional 145.022

Case
Diameter: 40 mm
Material: 904L steel
Bezel: unidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated
with black or green Cerachrom insert, platinum graduations
Winding crown: Triplock
shoulders to protect the crown
Crystal: sapphire, Cyclops lens with anti-reflective coating
Waterproofness: 300 m (1,000 ft)

Piaget has always been a "thin is in brand" stressing broad watch cases that barely lift of your wrists. They have been doing this for decades, especially appealing since they are a "real" watch maker that creates their own movements. So here I am at SIHH 2010 in Switzerland (when writing this article) checking out the new Piaget Altiplano Automatic Ultra-Thin watch that I've know about for a while and I am really moved by it. One of the best parts of the ludicrously thin 5.25mm watch is that it has a sapphire exhibition caseback with a view into the new Piaget caliber 1208p hand-done movement. It is an homage to the 50 year old classic Piaget 12p movement that was a previous ultra thin movement by the brand. The finishing and decoration of the watch is outstanding. You can see the circular style polish strips, blued steel screws, and gold micro-rotor. Because the watch is wider at 43mm, the movement looks sized like a flat Waterman cracker. You see this attractive minimalist dial with a subsidiary seconds hand, and then pure watch making glory on the backside. It just all feels almost impossible.

While this isn't the first year for the Healey Chrono Automatic watch, this year it comes with a special guest. Apparently, when you buy the watch, you get a hand-made stopwatch (which Frederique Constant called a "stoptimer"). Yes, I know the watch itself already has one of those, but how often to you get the chance to get a mechanical stopwatch that isn't found in a state sponsored sale of items from your local public school's athletic department after much needed modernizing.

Caliber 1863 Speedmaster Professional 3572.50

So the phone is heavy and high quality with an expensive watch movement. What about using it as a phone? It should suffice for that task. The unlocked device is a tri-band GSM phone developed with Sagem Wireless. The OS is pretty basic. Celsius sees the LeDIX as a companion or weekend phone. It is not supposed to replace your Blackberry. As such, they intend for the LeDIX to be used for calling, basic messaging, contacts, and the 3.2 megapixel auto-zoom with flash camera. Though the phone does have basic multi-media features such as a media player, and a web browser. The screen is a nice to look at 2.2 inch OLED. The phone is not a 3G device, and it really doesn't' need to be given what Celsius expects its owners to use it for. Battery life is about 3.5 hours of talk time.

As a precursor to Ananta, you can see were a lot of the SNR005, and its family of watches had a big influence on later high-end Seiko watches such as the Ananta collection. You see this in the lugs, hour markers, and hands. Each smaller here, but later blown up a bit for the Ananta watch collection. After having time with the SNR005 I have come to appreciate its many fine details. Images of the watch can't allow you to appreciate them as well as I would like to convey them. For example, the hour markers on the watch are diamond polished, and very sharp looking - not easy to show in images. Most of them look too thin to have such polishing, but they do. The watch hands feel stubby, but aren't. This is because of their large counterweight. They, like the Ananta watches, look like swords. The seconds hand and power reserve indicator hand are more needle-like.

The below article was written by contributor Marco, who sells Bell & Ross watches.

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The watch is in steel and 43mm wide and water resistant to 100 meters. Like I said, the movement is an automatic, and visible through the sapphire caseback window. The studded crown retains the nifty onyx stone cabochon in it. The Bi-Retro name comes from GG7722 movement having two retrograde counters. The watch has a jumping hour complication using in conjunction with a retrograde minute hand. Thus, the window located closer to 12 o'clock is for the hour, while it is surrounded by the retrograde minute scale. The lower retrograde scale is for the date. Overall I think the design is satisfying. It won't get current Gerald Genta Octo owners to trade their models in, but it won't disappoint future buyers either.


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Bezel
Unidirectional rotating steel bezel, engraved and equipped with a high-tech ceramic or sapphire dial (in blue or black) for easy reading of time under water.
Luminescent dot at 12 o’clock acts as guide marker.

In sating finished and polished titanium, the case is 42mm wide, and wears a bit large. It is water resistant to 100 meters, and has front and rear sapphire crystals. Movement is a Swiss ETA 2894-2 automatic, with a special signature Porsche Design rotor. The chronograph pushers and crown have grated surfaces for traction and ease of use (as well as design). Luminant is applied to the hands and I believe the hour indicators as well.

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MKII is based in the US, but uses Swiss mechanical movements. As such, you can throw MKII into the list of high-quality, indy American watch makers. While MKII has have some of their own unique designs, they are masters at the homage watch. Really wanted that XXXX Rolex from the 1960s, but either can't afford or find one? More likely than not MKII has you covered. Also, you can get homage pieces that have the looks you like from classics, without elements you don't, and of course you got a totally modern watch. While I get the craze behind vintage watch collecting, personally I like new stuff. It is gonna last longer, and you don't have to put up wit things like old crystals and movements that need expensive restoration.

As a limited edition, both the Beast and the Beauty will have 300 pieces each. I think it increases the appeal of the watch by knowing it isn't for the mass market. With such a limited amount of them, you'll probably the only one you ever meet with this cool looking limited edition timepiece.

The Evolution of Time…

The SNR005 watch contains a Spring Drive caliber 5R65 automatic movement. It has 30 jewels and a power reserve of about 72 hours. This movement has the basic Spring Drive features that other movements have expanded upon. This includes the time, date, and power reserve indicator. You can hand wind the movement as well of course. You'll hear a different type of sound than you normally would with a standard mechanical watch. Because Spring Drive has a mainspring and not a battery, that is what the crown is winding. When the mainspring runs down, instead of feeding power to an escapement, it feeds power to a special quartz regulator that acts like a brake. It slows the power to be highly consistent. The release of this power can be seen by the "glide wheel," which is what replaces an escapement. Seeing this wheel in action (through the back of the watch) allows you to understand why the seconds hand moves so smoothly without ticking. I like that Seiko placed the date on a dark colored disc to match the dial. Back on the matter of winding. Hand-winding the movement feels very efficient, while it seems to take automatic winding a bit more to power the watch to full. After a day of wearing the watch, the power reserve won't necessarily be lower than it originally was, but it won't necessarily be in the full position either. This means that the watch won't run down on you, but if you live a less "wrist active" lifestyle or don't wear the watch as much, I recommend putting it in a watch winder or keeping an eye on the power reserve indicator to hand-wind it if necessary.

People like Roland Iten are a major reason why I do this. Being able to work with amazingly talented designers, engineers, and inventors is what makes all this interesting. Sure a nicely designed watch or gadget is fun and easy to appreciate, but when that items reaches the level of an "invention" is really gets me stimulated on a higher level.

Most mainstream of the three is the Swatch "To the Top" watch, that is 41mm wide in plastic (these are Swatches, they are most all in plastic). It has a legible dial with snowy winter games colors and Olympics imagery. Inside is a Swiss quartz chronograph movement with a 10 hour chronograph. The strap is multicolored silicon that is comfy and looks pretty neat. The colorful timepiece helps get you in the mood for sporting events and is affordable enough so that it isn't something you need to worry much about getting dirty after roughing around with it. Price for the To the Top watch is 0.

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The G-02 movement performs "one operation per second," which accounts for the watches' One Hertz name. The watch actually runs at a 2.5 hertz rate which  I think is 21,600 bpm. So how does the second hand move only one place each second? Well it is really complex actually. Most watches like this have some type of constant force escapement, but the G-02 does not. It has a complex system of two mainspring barrels that work together to tell the time. Each mainspring barrel has its own gear train, but they are connected to work in unison. So one works to move the seconds hand, and another moves the hours and minutes. Not totally sure though how the seconds operate so slowly (most mechanical watches have the seconds hand tick rapidly at 5-10 times per seconds to make it look like it is sweeping), but here the seconds hand ticks just once per a second. The only true sweeping seconds hand is on a Seiko Spring Drive watch (as far as I know)  - though perhaps on a tuning fork movement (I just don't know enough about those). Anyhow, Gronefeld worked to ensure that friction was really low in the movement to promote accuracy.

The 1901 movement has some decoration on it, including forms of Geneva stripes, the blued screws and polished bridges. Very nice for the price, and I think most people who like the watch will be OK with the choice of movement. Back to the dial, I like that Techne placed different hands for the subsidiary seconds dial and the chronograph minutes dial.

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The wood used is actually teak - a popular wood when it comes to water resistance. Well, I have feeling it is highly treated though. The links in the bracelet are capped in steel to reduce wear. While the dial isn't the epitome of clarity, it is considered "unbusy" by Invicta standards. In all steel, the case is 48mm wide, and actually have a really attractive looking rotating diver's bezel.

The Kaitiaka and Kai Kaha watches are very similar, each even being the same price. The difference is the caseback style and design. The Magrette Kia Kaha (meaning "be strong") has a solid steel caseback with a beautiful engraving on its polished surface. The design is masculine, with a strong looking figurine worthy of the title of the piece. Each caseback of course is hand-engraved. Here, the engraving is known only to the wearer. Not only can they appreciate it each time they put on and remove the watch, but they can impress fans of the watch, when they take it off and hand it to them for inspection. I promise you that most people who see the art on the back of a watch like this are generally wowed by it. There is also a hand engraved indication of the number of the watch in its limited edition.

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