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Omega Speedmaster Reduced White Dial

While the passport and strange dial are gone, the "customization" is still there. Vacheron Constantin is careful this time around to point at that customization means choosing from a few predefined options. I guess over the last few years watch brands have realized that people are actually reading the press releases that barely put any effort into, and are in turn scrutinizing them. As such, the new QDI seven part watch case can be constructed from a few metals, and I believe you can also selectively choose the finishing (polished, brushed, etc...) on the various case parts. According the VC the case has 700 possible combos to choose from.

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In polished steel, the case is 35mm wide by 50mm tall. It does not feel small due to the length of the case. More refined and interesting compared to the M014, the case has well-done edges and the sides are much more interesting than the previous model. In addition to polished surfaces the sides also feature some sandblasted surfaces for a cool effect. The caseback of the watch is curved a bit for wearing comfort and the entire thing is water resistant to 50 meters.

Omega Speedmaster Professional DD145.0022

The disk moves around the dial once each 12 hours - slowest animation ever! The watches are each 40mm wide in steel "time gallery" style Angular Momentum cases. In addition to Little Devil, there is the Memento Mori watch - which translates into the uplifting message of "remember you will die." In an almost satirical manner, the names of each of the watches is inscribed in cursive on the black reserve painted sapphire crystal dials. The Breguet style font for the hour numerals completes the classy nightmare look. I want to get one of these Phenakistoscope watches to any prospective parents I know out there. Existing parents should likely opt for the Memento Mori pieces - for obvious reasons. Happy Halloween.

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"... the recently discovered Patek Philippe full 24-hour repeating, quarter and special-type five-minute repeating 24-hours in one revolution pocket watch. This exceptional watch was originally sold to Monsieur E. Hoesch, Villa Barbaia, Mergellina, Naples, on November 27, 1894 for 3750 Swiss Francs. It is a highly important 18K pink gold, keyless pocket watch with perpetual calendar, chronograph, moon phases, and lunar calendar accompanied by the original certificate of origin and Patek Philippe sales receipt."

Today I present you with their JC1 Shadowplay watch. A less than silent homage to the song of the same name. I easily see MARCH LA.B's designer wearing a green velvet jacket listening to Joy Division's 1978 song while drawing out the watch. Though that doesn't totally explain the galuchat (stingray) strap. The steel case is 40mm wide and very elegant. The curves are fluid but there are angles where necessary. The pieces of the case and sapphire crystal fit together and result in a series of seamless lines and angles. The result is impressive.

One Of The Last Omega Speedmaster Professional 145.012 Watches

Partially openworked 22-carat gold oscillating weight with anthracite galvanic treatment

Let's talk about the movement and why it is cool first. Inside all the current Precisionist watches are the Japanese made Bulova caliber P102.12 or P112.10 quartz movements. As far as I know those are the only two Precisionist movements available right now. Bulova is owned by Citizen (Japanese) at this time, but used to be US owned. The movement offers three major desirable features. First and most importantly is the accuracy. The watch is accurate to about plus/minus 10 seconds a year. That is in comparison to about 15 seconds a month for standard quartz movements. It is also comparable to much higher-end Japanese and Swiss thermocompensated quartz movements. Second, the watch has a smooth sweeping seconds hand. It is smooth like the seconds hand on a Seiko Spring Drive, and more smooth that the seconds hand on most mechanical watches. Third, it has an acceptable battery life rated at between 2-3 years per power cell.

Movement alone                        11 g

Hands-On Omega Speedmaster Apollo 13 Silver Snoopy Award Review

At least you'll know that it is cool. Isn't that enough for you? Hublot will make just 50 pieces of the Hublot La Cle Du Temps for the world to digest. If I don't see Mathias wearing one of these on a regular basis I will be just a bit disappointed. His next invention should be a watch that works on speeding up and slowing down the tempo in people talking to you. Wouldn't you like conversations with your parents to happens four times faster?

Visiting The Blancpain Haute Horology Watch Manufacture

Visiting The Blancpain Haute Horology Watch Manufacture

See what I mean?

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Boutique New York Watch Watch Releases

Differences in Speedmaster Bezels

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Jean Dunand Shabaka Watch Hands-On Hands-On

With just two hands and Cartier Roman numerals, the guilloche machine engraved dial looks slick and still easy to read. Whether or not you like the style of it is a matter of taste, but it is a pretty attractive face in the scheme of things. There is also that blue dialed version of the Ballon Bleu - that is special for the platinum cased model. Aside from that are 18k white and rose gold models with more traditional looking Cartier dials. The covered crown has a sapphire cabochon set in it.

Speedmaster Price Guide

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Bovet Sportster Saguaro Watches Hands-On

Bovet Sportster Saguaro Watches Hands-On

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Listen to the HourTime Show watch podcast episode 69 here.

Time For An Invicta Bromance?

Using the standard 47mm wide Artya steel case, this "bullets for brains" Son of a Gunwatch places six very small Flobert 6mm rounds around the automatic Swiss movement (which is placed in the center of the dial. A design on the bezel and inner dial hearken to targeting sights. The latter element is kitschy but acceptable. I am pretty sure the Flobert bullets are live rounds.

At the same time Lange has a lot pride itself on. A. Lange & Sohne is a complete watch movement manufacturer - they even make a lot of their own hairsprings. I discussed more about their manufacture and production process back in 2009 here starting in this article. In my opinion they make of the nicest watch movements in the world - if not the absolute best looking watch movements anywhere (amazing finishing as well). The German style differs a bit from the Swiss, and you'll see that Lange movements offer different decoration and more exposed areas - especially in their chronograph models. Use of the iconic German 3/4 plates for the movements also improves the strength of the movements while offering a unique look. All Lange watches have hand-engraved balance cocks. A fun fact to know as you'll never get tired of saying "balance cock." These engraved areas are also beautiful to look at. Though what can I really say with words on the matter of beauty? Hence the pictures of these lovely Lange calibers. Anyone seeing them can agree they are pretty, but after years of seeing lots of other movements I can attest to them being beautiful.

21 Blackjack tech specs from Christophe Claret:
Movement Mechanical self-winding movement, Calibre BLJ08, twin barrel, 50 components, 40 jewels and 7 double sets of ceramic ball bearings, frequency 28,800 v/h (4 Hz), power reserve of about 72 hours
Functions Hour, minute, three games: blackjack with bell, roulette and dice
Case White gold and grade 5 black PVD titanium; pink gold and grade 5 black PVD titanium; platinum and grade 5 black PVD titanium; grade 5 black PVD titanium, or grade 5 grey titanium. Diameter: 45 mm
Two side windows, one revealing the striking mechanism hammer and bell, the other a pair of dice
Titanium or titanium/gold crowns
Watertight to 3 atm
Dial Titanium and grey sapphire with a plaque decorated with casino-related motifs (card games, Las Vegas or Joker), or black onyx
Black PVD/ruby or gold/ceramic hands

  • three “dealer” windows, two of which are activated by a button pushpiece at 10 o’clock with bell
  • four “player” windows, three of which are activated by a button pushpiece at 8 o’clock with bell

Introducing You To The Speedy Tuesday Magazine

You'll be surprised to learn that in addition to the time, date, and 1/1000 of a second chronograph, the watch has a world time function and alarm. The world time function is neat, because it uses the upper left subdial to show you the reference time. In fact, you can choose to have the reference time on the main dial, and the second time zone on the little subdial. Again, consult the manual for this. Easily the neatest part about operating the watch is the 1/1000th of a second chronograph. When operating the hands are all flying about rapidly. It is an intense little feat of engineering, and relies of five different small motors. Though reading the measured time isn't that easy as it uses all the dials to measure the time, and you need to know how to read them. You also need pretty good vision to see all the little numbers. Seeing the miniature ballet of hands moving around never seems to get old.

Visiting The Blancpain Haute Horology Watch Manufacture Inside the Manufacture

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